En route from Granada to Ronda we stopped off to walk the Caminito del Rey, a walk of just under 8km cut into a steep sided valley. Originally opened in the 1920’s the walkway was overhauled and reopened in 2015, after a number of accidents and deaths putting it up there on the leaderboard of most dangerous footpaths in the world. After 4 years of repairs the walk is now very safe, but still interesting and unusual with stunning views up and down the valley sides and remains of the old hydro workings that were the reason for the orignal walkway. It’s also a haven for wildlife from butterflies through to the massive vultures circling above.
The upper area of the valley contains a massive reservoir constructed about the same time as our local reservoir back home. It reminds us of Ladybower, all showy dressed stone & massive structures designed to make you go wow, humans can build anything and build it to last. Down in the valley away from public eyes, dressed stone is replaced with steel reinforced concrete structures that have failed over time, not least the original walkway. The concrete aqueduct that would have transported massive ammounts of water to feed the hydro generators have collapsed and now become part of the walkway in places. Presumably the aqueduct has been replaced by enclosed steel pipework out of sight entirely as the hydro humms with activity.
We realise that there are lots of other walking options in the area and would like to return to get more off the beaten track. If there’s one thing that the Caminito del Rey is, it’s a beaten path! Navigating eroded sections of walkway while being attached to a wire is no longer on the cards, the trickiest thing about the walk is now maintaining a distance between the many tour groups that compete for space. That said they do limit the number of people on the route at a time and we quickly found a suitable pace and space to have to our selves.
At the end, we shuttle back to the carpark by bus as the route is one way only. From there we head to Ronda where our hotel overlooks the enormous Puente Nuevo bridge linking the town to the valley. We eat lunch overlooking the walkway which surrounds the town with expansive views out over pasture to the mountains in the distance thinking that we will be flying around in those hills in just a few days. It’s also a great place for people watching. Later that evening a massive storm sweeps in which clears the air a bit for sightseeing the following day. But first we take in tapas at Tragata which serves Asian fusion tapas and great wine.
In the morning the storm from the previous day has done it’s job and the air is clear. There is an early mist rising and a hot air balloon rises up over the town with mountains in the background. We think we have done a good tour round the city, yet in the evening when we wander back from more good tapas and wine, this time at Entre Vinos, we stumble on the high street area – a part of the town we had completely missed. Admittedly as it’s just high street stores that we’re not that bothered about, but it’s amazing to think that we would not have even seen that part of Ronda had we not taken a bit of a meandering route home.
On our last morning in Ronda we manage a 5km run along the front and then around the newly discovered part of town. The final task for Ronda is to sort out some new boots for Beck, from the newly discovered shops, in preparation for paragliding – our very next stop!